Wednesday 25 September 2019

See Us At St Margarets Hall Southsea This Saturday

Table Top Sale at St Margaret's Church Hall, Highland Road, Southsea.


I am pleased to let you know that I will be at the St Margarets Table Top Sale this Saturday, 28th September, 2019, with my crochet gifts stall - Teddy in a Bag.

The Table Top Sale will be open from 1pm to 3pm.

The venue is St Margaret's Church Hall, which is in Highland Road, Southsea, PO4 9DD.

This will be a great sale, with Free Entry to see lots of different tables, crafts, gifts, nearly-new, and the chance to have a chat with a local Crime Writing Author!

Refreshments are available also, so this will be just the thing for an enjoyable Saturday afternoon.

The sale is in aid of helping the local community.

It's an extra bonus to be able to attend events which help good causes, so I'm making sure I will have some new stock on display, alongside all the Teddy in a Bag favourites.


You can see some of the lines I will be showing in the picture above.

There are teeny tiny baskets with tiny teddies and bunnies inside; teddies in swinging cradles; moses baskets, teddy cradles, small children's baskets, backpacks, and shoulder bags, and pretty purses - all with a teddy inside. And those brand new Decorative Baskets with a happy Teddy snuggled up inside which I shared the pattern for in my previous post.

There will also be some elephant 'snuggle blankets', pretty pencil cases, and some items for adults and teenagers too - the large crochet shopper on the right of the picture is just one example of this range. There will also be phone bags, clutches, shoulder bags and purses. And all made by me 😀.

So, if you are in the Portsmouth and Southsea area, it would be great if you dropped in to see us all.

And if you do, please come over to say hello. We can have a chat about crafts 😀.

~ Silvi

Monday 23 September 2019

Decorative Gift Basket - Free Crochet and Sewing Pattern

Make a Decorative Gift Basket For Someone Special. A pattern/tutorial which includes a crochet pattern, help with pattern cutting, and sewing tips.


This is an explanation of how to make decorative 'gift' baskets, using a plain basket and adding crochet sides and a padded cotton cushion and bolster to complement the gift you put inside.

I think these baskets will make great presents that you can make yourself and add your own individual touches to.

I made mine to hold a teddy bear (measuring 20cms x 19cms when seated), but they would make a unique gift container for many different toys, jewellery, or a collection of small (and medium-sized) gifts.

The baskets I used for the base to measure 11cms inside depth by 71 cms circumference.
And my completed baskets measure 12.5cms depth by 72cms circumference.

My crochet pattern uses those measurements to make the basket outer cover.

But you can make these to fit any circular basket as follows:

  • For smaller baskets, just finish the base bit early and then carry on with the side rows until it is high enough to reach just part the top of the base basket.
  • For larger baskets, just keep adding to the base until it is large enough to fit your basket (you can see my previous post on making circles if you are unsure how to increase as you go). And then add a few rows to the side until your basket cover is just a bit higher than the base basket.

Why use a base basket?


I used a base basket to cover, because I was making a largish basket, and the bigger the basket, the more difficult it is to keep its shape (unless you make it with something like heavy rope, rather than cotton yarn...).
But for smaller baskets, you don't actually need a base basket to cover. If crocheted tight it should stand well on its own.
A light spraying of spray starch should ensure that a smaller basket keeps its shape.

Materials Required:


  • Circular basket (buy these in ornaments or storage sections of local stores/supermarkets - ones with openwork sides are best for fitting the cover)
  • Yarn of your choice in one or more colours.
  • Crochet Hook (size depends on yarn used, but should be a smaller size than normally used for double thickness of the particular yarn you are using). This is to get the stiffness and tightness of stitches required to make a firm basket. 
  • Darning/large eye needle for weaving in yarn ends.
  • Fabric for the cushion and bolster.
  • Polyester Fibre filling - flame retardent.
  • Sewing thread.
  • Tape measure.
  • Pins.
  • Sewing needle (or sewing machine if preferred).
  • Lace, ribbon, or other material (if you want to add extra decoration).
  • And a gift or gifts to put in your gift basket.

Yarn Required:


Yarn of your choice.
I've found that cotton yarn works best for me, but it's not essential.
With worsted, dk, or lighter weight yarn, you will need to work with 2 strands at once.

I used Drops Muskat, which is a DK 100% cotton yarn (50 grams/100m per skein).
Used holding 2 strands together throughout.
With a 5mm hook (US = H/8)
Amount of yarn used to make each one of my baskets was approximately 440 meters.

But your usage may vary according to yarn used and size of basket made.

You can make your basket stripey or plain (or add a trim to it, like I have added a small flower trim to my turquoise shades basket).
As my baskets were stripey, the pattern reflects that with colour changes.
So, just ignore them if you are using one yarn (which will then be Yarn A throughout).

For reference, in my red, white and green basket, the Colours go as follows:
Yarn A = Red,
Yarn B = White,
Yarn C = Green.

Note on Decoration:
Row 20 is a dc row (between 2 hdc rows of the same colour).
This gives you a thicker centre row where you can add lace, or thread through a contrasting chain, or add other decorations, if you choose.


Stitch Terminology:

Pattern is written in US terms.
  • MR = Magic ring (or magic circle - see YouTube for examles of making a magic ring/circle if you are not sure).
  • Ch = chain.
  • st = stitch.
  • sts = stitches.
  • sl st = slip stitch.
  • sk = skip (examples: sk1 = skip next st; sk2 = skip next 2 stitches).
  • sc = single crochet.
  • hdc = half double crochet.
  • dc = double crochet.
  • BLO = Back loop only (make the stitch into the back loop of the stitch, rather than through/under both loops of the st as is usual).
  • Around = complete the row to the end (unless the next instruction changes this slightly. eg: "continue with *to* around until last 2 sts; hdc in last 2 sts").
  • From * to * = Repeat the sequence of stitches between the * *.

Basket Cover Crochet Pattern:


Note for stitch counts:
Ch2 counts as 1 hdc throughout.
Ch3 counts as 1 dc throughout.

With Yarn A:
Holding 2 strands of yarn together, make a magic ring (MR)

Row 1: Ch 2, hdc 7 sts into ring. Sl st into top of ch2 to join. (8 sts).
Gently pull yarn ends of MR to close.

Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in same st; 2hdc into each of remaining sts. Sl st into top of ch2 to join. (16 sts).

Now tighten MR and work ends into back of work, neatly threading yarn ends forward, back, forward to secure.

Row 3: Ch 2, 2hdc in next st; *hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st*; follow * to * around to end. Sl st into top of ch2 to join (24 sts).

Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in same st; *hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next*; follow * to * around to end, omitting final 2hdc. Sl st into top of ch2 to join (32 sts).

Row 5: Ch 2, hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st; *hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next*; follow * to * around to end of row. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (40 sts).

Row 6: Ch 2, 2hdc in next st; *hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next*; follow * to * around to final 3 sts, hdc in final 3 sts. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (48 sts).

Row 7: Ch 2, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st; *hdc in next 5 sts, 2hdc in next*; follow * to * around until final st, hdc in final st. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (56 sts).

Row 8: Ch 2, 2hdc in next st; *hdc in next 6 sts, 2hdc in next*; follow * to * around to last 5 sts. Hdc in each of final 5 sts. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (64 sts).

Row 9: Ch 2, hdc in same st, *hdc in next 7 sts, 2hdc in next*; follow * to * around, omitting final 2hdc. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (72 sts).

Row 10: Ch 2, hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next st; *hdc in next 8 sts, 2hdc in next*; follow * to * around until final 3 sts, hdc in each of final 3 sts. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (80 sts).

The base of your basket cover is now completed.

The following rows will build the sides:

Row 11: Ch 2, hdc BLO in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (80 sts).
(BLO sts are to make an 'edge' for the base - in this pattern they are only used in Row 11).

Row 12: Ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (80 sts).

If you are making a 'stripey' basket like mine, it is now time to change yarns (if not, just carry on with your original yarn).

Cut yarn A, leaving an end to weave in.

Change to Yarn B.

Row 13: With Yarn B:
Join new yarn with a sl st, then ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (80 sts).

Row 14: Ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. (80 sts).
Cut yarn B, leaving an end to weave in.

Change to Yarn C.

Row 15: With Yarn C:
Join new yarn with a sl st, then ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (80 sts).

Row 16: Ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. (80 sts).
cut yarn C, leaving an end to weave in.

Change to Yarn B.

Row 17: With Yarn B:
Join new yarn with a sl st, then ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (80 sts).

Row 18: Ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. (80 sts).
cut yarn B, leaving an end to weave in.

Change to Yarn A.

Row 19: With Yarn A:
Join new yarn with a sl st, then ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (80 sts).

New St (double crochet) for the following row:)

Row 20: Ch 3, dc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch3 to join. (80 sts)

(Back to original (hdc) st again:)

Row 21: Ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. (80 sts).
cut yarn A, leaving an end to weave in.

Change to Yarn B.

Row 22: With Yarn B:
Join new yarn with a sl st, then ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (80 sts).

Row 23: Ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. (80 sts).
cut yarn B, leaving an end to weave in.

Change to Yarn C.

Row 24: With Yarn C:
Join new yarn with a sl st, then ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (80 sts).

Row 25: Ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. (80 sts).
cut yarn C, leaving an end to weave in.

Change to Yarn B.

Row 26: With Yarn B:
Join new yarn with a sl st, then ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join (80 sts).

Row 27: Ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Sl st to top of ch2 to join. (80 sts).
DO NOT CUT YARN

Turn your work.
The final row will be done on the Wrong Side.

Shell edging:

Row 28: Still with Yarn B:
Ch 3, dc 4 times into same st; sk 1 st, sc in next st, sk 1 st; *dc 5 times into next st, sk 1 st, sc in next st, sk 1 st*;
Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to top of ch3 to join.
Cut yarn, leaving an end to weave in.

Weave in all yarn ends.

Finished Basket cover showing final row turned back as shell edging.
 And the crochet part of your basket has been completed!

Do not fix the crochet cover to the base basket yet, because you need to use the base basket to make your fabric pattern.

Making the Cushion and Bolster for inside the basket:


Measuring for fabric to be used:


The Cushion:
Take a piece of paper large enough to place the basket on.
Place the basket on the paper and draw around the base - you should then have a paper circle the same size as the base.
This is your cushion pattern, without seam allowance or 'bulking' allowance (when the padding is put inside, this will make the cushion 'bulk' and the original measurements will be a little short).
You will need to cut 2 shapes of material from the cushion pattern, but when you cut them out, you will need to add around 1cm extra for the seam + 2cm extra for 'bulking' (see picture if you're not sure what to do here).

The Bolster:
Measure the basket you will be covering as follows:.
Measure the circumference (around the outside of the basket). This will be the length of the bolster.
Measure the depth of the basket. This will be the width of the bolster.

The Bolster will be made from a rectangle of fabric which measures:
Length: Circumference + seam allowance (about 1 cm) + allowance for 'bulking' (about 1-2 cms)
(Becomes Circumference plus about 3cms).

Width: Depth x 2 + seam allowance (about 1 cm) + allowance for 'bulking' (about 2cms).
(Becomes Depth plus about 3cms).

The fabric you choose will need to be a piece which is large enough to make the 2 cushion pieces and the bolster piece.

Cutting out your fabric:


Bolster:
Fold your fabric lengthwise if possible.
With fabric folded, begin at one side edge and measure down from the fold to a point which is the depth + about 3cms.
Place a pin at this point.

Then, measure along the fold to make the length of the bolster (circumference + around 3cms).
Place a pin at this point.

Then, with your tape measure, go along the length of the bolster, measuring down from the fold to the depth + 3cms and place pins at several points, placing your last pin down from the pin you placed to note the length required (this gives you a straight line to cut).

Then, carefully cut along your pin lines for the length and up from your last pin at 'depth level' to the pin placed at the fold.
And that's your bolster cut out.

NOTE:
If you have a piece of fabric which has cut outs or similar and is therefore unable to be folded to get a full length for the bolster:
If you still have room on your fabric, you can instead cut 2 pieces on unfolded fabric.
But if you do this, you will need to add an extra 2cms for the seam allowance at the top.

Cushion:
On your folded fabric pin your cushion shape.
Then carefully cut around the circular shape, but not at the edge - allow an extra 3cms all around and cut there.
This will give you 2 cushion shapes of fabric.

NOTE:
If you are unable to cut your cushion shape on folded fabric, just place the cushion pattern on your fabric twice and cut around as above.

Sewing the Cushion and Bolster:


Bolster:
Turn the fabric and fold it so that the wrong sides are facing outwards.
Pin both side edges along the seam line (around 1-2cms in).
Pin the bottom edge (using the same seam line), but leave an unpinned section of about 15cms in the middle (this will be the gap where we put the filling in).
Machine or hand sew down the edges and along the bottom on the pin marks, removing pins as you go.
BUT DON'T FORGET to leave the opening in the bottom middle.

Cut and fasten off your sewing thread.

Turn the bolster to the right side (you do this by pushing it through the opening you have left at the bottom).

Get your polyester filling material. Take smallish pieces at a time and push them gently into the bolster.
Don't over-stuff the bolster. It is supposed to be 'comfy' and 'squishy' - not too firm.
When you have enough filling in the bolster it's time to sew up the gap.

You can hand sew the gap together if you like:
Fold down the seams either side of the gap and then pin them together.
Hand sew together by carefully catching a thread from the folded-down seam either side of the gap and sewing them together.
Do this all along the gap. Cut and fasten off your thread.
This is the neatest way and shouldn't really show the join.

Or, you can maching sew the gap together:
Fold down the seams either side of the gap and then pin them together.
Then carefully machine sew along the seam you have just made - but sew AS NEAR AS POSSIBLE TO THE EDGE (making sure that you catch both pieces as you do so).
This looks nearly as neat as hand sewn, so it's up to you 😉

Cushion:
Take your 2 cushion pieces.
Place them with right sides together (so that you are working with the wrong side facing you).
Pin them together.
Pin around the circle about 1-2cms in from the edge.
Leave a gap of about 8cms for turning and filling.
Machine or hand sew around the seam line, removing pins as you go.
DON'T FORGET to leave the 8cm gap.

Cut your thread and tie it off.
Then, turn the cushion to the right side (by pushing it through the gap).
Take your polyester filling material.
Break off fairly small parts and push into the gap.
Fill cushion with enough filling to be comfy and a bit 'bouncy', but not too hard.
It needs to look and feel 'squashy' rather than balloon like 😀.
Now it's time to sew up the gap in the cushion fabric.
Follow directions for pinning and sewing the gap in the bolster.
And then the cushion's done!

Bolster and Cushion completed ready to place in basket


Final bits....

Take your crochet basket cover and fit it around the base basket.

I like to raise the edge slightly above the edge of the base basket.
Then fold the shell edging back so that it hangs down (in white it looks like snow on a roof 🌨 ).
Once the basket cover is fitted correctly you can fix it in place:

Fixing the Crochet Cover to the Base Basket:
Take a needle with a long thread of yarn - use a colour that you have used a lot in the crochet pattern.
From the INSIDE of the base basket, gently push threaded needle through a gap in the basket that corresponds with a crochet section on the outside which is the same colour as the thread used.
Leave a length of thread on the inside which is about 8cms long.
Take the needle and thread back through to the inside, making sure that you are still on the same colour as the thread and that you are threading through a different part of the inner basket (but one that is less than a 0.5cm away).
Cut the thread, leaving an end of about 8cms.
Tie a tight knot with the two edges of thread left, then cut thread close to the knot.

Do this in several places around the basket.
Your crochet basket cover will then be secure.

And then...

Place the cushion in the bottom of the basket.
Take the bolster and place it in the basket, on top of the cushion, so that the bolster fits around the inner edge.
(If you are placing a soft toy in the basket, the bolster can be wrapped around them, to make a comfy 'seating area' :)
If you like, you can 'fluff up' the bolster a little, so that it's above the edge of the basket.

Put your toy or gift inside (as you can see, soft toys look very comfy in the basket :) ).

And you have a lovely and very unique gift to give to someone special.
I'm sure they will love it!



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You can find a Free PDF version of this pattern/tutorial on Ravelry here:
Decorative Gift Basket by Silvi Veale
As well as this pattern, it also contains many more pictures with explanations which you may find useful.

------------------

This pattern/tutorial has been written by me - Silvi Veale.
I hope you enjoy using it.

I've tried to explain everything as much as possible.
But if you have any questions, you can contact me either:

In the comments on this blog post at Elephant Sun Dog.
Or on Ravelry - my Ravelry username is Silvi3

You can use this pattern to make items to give as gifts or to sell at markets and fairs.

However, please do not copy this post/pattern and say it is yours.
And please do not share the pictures I have used in this post as if they are yours.

---------------------

Thank you so much for reading this pattern - it's a long one :)

And I hope you enjoy using it to make some lovely decorative baskets.

~ Silvi

Friday 20 September 2019

Making a Crochet Circle - Troubleshooters Guide

How to Crochet a Flat Circle and Troubleshooting for when things go wrong:

(US crochet terminology used).
 We make crochet flat circles for many different things - coasters, mandalas, table cloths, the base of bags and baskets, etc.
So, knowing how to make a crochet circle, and the number of stitches to begin with, is important.
Also important is ensuring that when you want to make a FLAT circle, you actually make it flat 😀.

There is a really helpful formula for making a crochet circle. It depends upon the stitch you are going to use. And once you know this, you are well on your way to making a good circle:

Crochet Circle Basic Formula:

  • Single Crochet (sc): Begin with 6 to 10 stitches in Row one.
  • Half Double Crochet (hdc): Begin with 8 to 12 stitches in Row one.
  • Double Crochet (dc): Begin with 10 to 14 stitches in Row one.
Then increase each Row by the number of stitches used in the first Row.

For example - a starting Row of 10, means that your next row will total 20 stitches and your third row will total 30 stitches, etc.

Crochet Circle Example Part-Pattern:

We are making this crochet circle with dc stitches:
(Ch 3 counts as a dc for st count)

Using the dc stitch means beginning with 10 - 14 sts (see formula above).
I like to use 12, so I'm using that number in my example (but it's up to you).

Begin with a Magic Ring (or ch4 and make dcs into furthest ch - remaining 3 chs will count as first ch3 below).

  • Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc 11 into ring. Sl st join to top of beginning ch3 (12 sts).

  • Row 2: Ch 3, dc into same st; 2dc into next st and into each st around. Join with a sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (24 sts).

  • Row 3: Ch 3, dc into same st; dc into next st, 2dc into next st; *dc, 2dc,* repeat from * to * around (missing last 2dc at end). Join with a sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (36 sts).

  • Row 4:  Ch 3, dc into same st; dc into next st, dc into next st, 2dc into next st; *dc, dc, 2dc,* repeat from * to * around (missing last 2dc at end). Join with a sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (48 sts).

  • Row 5:  Ch 3, dc into same st; dc into next st, dc into next st, dc into next st, 2dc into next st; *dc, dc, dc, 2dc,* repeat from * to * around (missing last 2dc at end). Join with a sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (60 sts).

Repeat this process, increasing by 12 sts each row, until your circle is the size you require.

Trouble shooting:

Okay, the above example works great in many cases, but it does have a couple of snags in others.

The 'pointy', almost-hexagon effect:

Slight 'pointy' effect cuased by increases in the same place.
 Because you are increasing in the same places on each row, the more rows you crochet, the more you are likely to discover that your circle has 'pointy' bits.
This doesn't usually matter for smallish circles (coasters, for example), because the increases hardly show.
But once you go on past 4 or 5 rows, those 'pointy bits' will begin to become more and more prominent.
Now the easy way would be to say 'okay I'll make this part of the pattern'.
But you probaby won't want to do that 😀.

So, you need to tweak the formula a little as follows:

See the example circle pattern above.
Then let's alter that slightly so that we spread out the increases:
Rows 1 - 4 we don't really need to change, so let's begin from Row 5:
(I've put Row 4 below too to show how we've changed the stitch placement from Row 5 onwards):

  • Row 4:  Ch 3, dc into same st; dc into next st, dc into next st, 2dc into next st; *dc, dc, 2dc,* repeat from * to * around (missing last 2dc at end). Join with a sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (48 sts).

  • Row 5:  Ch 3, dc into next st, dc into next st, 2dc into next st; *dc, dc, dc, 2dc,* repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (60 sts).

  • Row 6:  Ch 3, dc into next st, 2dc into next st; *dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc,* repeat from * to * until final 2 sts; dc in each of final 2 sts.  Join with a sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (72 sts).

  • Row 7:  Ch 3, 2dc into next st; *dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc,* repeat from * to * until final 4 sts; dc in each of final 4 sts. Join with a sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (84 sts).

The above is just an example of 'shuffling around the stitch increases' to prevent that 'pointy pattern'.
It takes a bit of setting out, but to be honest, you could shuffle them around any way you like, as long as you come up with the same st count and number of increases at the end.


Your Circle Doesn't Lie Flat:


There are 2 basic reasons for this:

Ruffling:
If your circle is ruffling and looks more like the shape of a crisp than a circle (!) then it is most likely that at some point you have increased by too many stitches.
The 'crisp' effect
 This can happen, even when following the above basic formula.
I find it happens more when I used a thick (or double-stranded) yarn and the hdc stitch.
But your experience may vary (many have this problem with sc stitches).

Ruffling can be easily fixed if you make changes to your pattern as soon as you notice.
You can either:
  • Do a Row or 2 without increases until your circle is flat laying again, then continue with increasing from where you left off.

  • Or, if the ruffling is really bad, you need to unravel a couple of rows until you get to the row where it looked flat, and then alter the number of increases you make - perhaps every 5 sts for instance, rather than every 3, depending on where you are on the pattern, and increasing according to your new formula.

You may, however, find that the ruffling is caused by the stitch count of your first row being too high.
(I'm sorry if that happens, but then you will need to begin again...).

As you can see from the Basic Formula, the number of stitches recommended for each type of stitch used varies (for instance, if using sc stitches, you can choose between 6 and 10 sts as your beginning row - that can be a big variation when making a large circle)
In this case, you may have to experiment a little.
Suggestions:
If the ruffling looks mega 😲, then use the lowest number of stitches suggested in the formula.
If it's not too bad, try going down 2 stitches from the original number you used.

NOTE - although the basic formula gives you choices of the number of stitches to use, you may struggle to balance increases if you pick an odd number.
It's doable, but be aware that you will be left with either an extra stitch or one less increase on the beginning rows if you use an odd starting number.

Cupping:
This row of the circle is 'cupping' slightly - edge turning up.

Your circle may be doing the opposite of ruffling - it may be 'cupping' (the edge is turning inwards).
Cupping means that you don't have enough stitches in the outer rows to keep the circle flat.
So, you need to increase the number of stitches per row.

If cupping is bad, you may need to unravel a row or two before correcting, but if it has only just begun to cup:
The easiest way is to repeat the increases used in the previous row.
For example, if you find cupping begins on Row 7, then go back and make one or 2 more rows using the same number of increases you used in Row 6.

And that should be cupping solved.

Unless....
What if you are making a coaster or similar and it has begun to cup, but you don't want to increase the overall size? But that would be the result of doing extra increase rows?

If your crochet circle has just started to cup (not enough stitches):
Try going up one or two hook sizes to crochet your outer Rows - this often works a treat.
Last 2 rows of pattern completed with larger hook to prevent cupping.

So, I hope it solves your problem :)

------------------------------

Well that's a lot of information for one post, so I think I'll stop there 😀.

I hope this little tutorial/crochet help post has been useful.

But if you are still wondering what best stitch count to use for a circle, or how to stop ruffling, etc, there's a great deal of helpful information out there on the internet.
Google really is your friend here.

And to let you into a secret: I am in the middle of making a tutorial for a crochet basket, but I was struggling to get the base circle to lie flat, so I've been experimenting...
And this post is the result.

So look out for a Free Crochet basket pattern coming very soon.
(When I've completed it 😀 )

Sunday 15 September 2019

New Pattern - Small Moses Basket and Swaddling Blanket

I'm always looking for new crochet patterns for moses baskets, because they make lovely holders for teddy bears :)

But I'm also always aware that a Moses Basket with a teddy inside should be safe for a child and easy to carry about.

I have already designed a Moses Basket For A Toddler pattern which holds an 8 to 10 inch soft toy - ideal for a small child.
But many children aged 3 to 12 have taken a liking to these too, while others want something just a little smaller.

So I have designed a new Small Moses Basket and Swaddling Blanket crochet pattern. The Moses Basket is ideal to fit a soft toy or doll measuring between 5 inches and 7 inches.

And to add some comfort and warmth for the toy (😀), I have added to this pattern a design for a swaddling blanket too. The swaddling blanket is wide and roomy and wraps around a dolly or teddy bear with lots of room to spare.

There are two versions of the pattern and you will be able to download them both as required:
  • A full written pattern with explanatory pictures and diagrams alongside the pattern.
  • A full written text only pattern which is print friendly.
This is a paid pattern (£2 plus VAT - if applicable - on Ravelry), but that is because it really is a full pattern, with making instructions, together diagrams and pictures to explain particular stitches and how to get a good finish to your work.
So you will not be disappointed.

You can find the pattern in my Ravelry Store where you can read more about the pattern and see more pictures:
Small Moses Basket and Swaddling Blanket

Or, if you prefer, you can go straight to the pattern to buy now 😃

It really is a nice easy make - especially with the helpful instructions.

However, if you would rather buy one of these Small Moses Baskets with a Teddy already inside and wrapped in a blanket, you can find one here in our Etsy Shop:
Teddy Bear In A Crochet Moses Basket in Soft Swaddle Blanket


Either way, I'm sure you know a little one who would love one of these! :)

Monday 9 September 2019

Ten Free Patterns for Crochet Coasters

I've been making crochet coasters for a short while. They are (usually) very easy and quick to make and very satisfying in that you can soon build up a collection of pretty coasters which looks really impressive! 😀

Here are 10 Free Patterns For Crochet Coasters I have used to make coasters, or that are on my list to make very soon.
Enjoy!

1: Make a Set of Five Ombre Crocheted Coasters

By Marinke Slump
This is a great coaster tutorial and pattern.
Easy and quick and using surface slip stitches to add to the pattern.
You can find the free pattern here:
Make a Set of Five Gorgeous Ombre Crocheted Coasters

I've made 3 lots of these so far. I didn't quite stick to the ombre idea (making each coaster slip stitch decoration in a colour which shades in with the previous one), but I like them anyway :)
The first set was a gift:
Set of Ombre Coasters in Dark Heather, with Lilac and White Trim
And the other two sets are now on Etsy:
Set of 6 coasters in beautiful burgundy
Set of 6 attractive coasters in light grey cotton

2: The Citrus Coaster Pattern, by Dona Knits.

This was the first coaster pattern I tried and I think it's still my favourite for making coaster only sets.
A lovely clean and neat pattern that is easy to do and looks elegant.
This pattern is a free Ravelry download. So, members of Ravelry can find it here:
Citrus Coaster by Dona Knits

I've made quite a few of these in light purple and will definitely make more in other colours (when I get the time!).
Here's the link to them in our Etsy Shop:
Set of 6 Coasters in Light Purple

3: Lacy Coaster by Claire from Crochet Leaf

I love this coaster pattern! (and the free doily pattern too).
It's easy to follow, well-explained, and quick to do. And you can easily make a lovely  set of lacy coasters which make you look like a crochet expert!
You can find the free coaster pattern here:
Lacy Crochet Coaster

Here's some doily and coaster sets that I have made from Claire's lovely patterns.
You can find sets of them on our Etsy site here:
Crochet Lace Doily and 6 coasters set in Turquoise Cotton

 Crochet Lace Doily and 6 coasters set in Dark Heather

4: Free crochet pattern: Roller Coasters

 by Kirsten Ballering
Is a nice, quick and simple coaster pattern which adds surface slip stitch colours to make the 'roller coaster' and this works great!
You can find the free crochet pattern here:
Free Crochet Pattern - Roller Coasters
(No pictures from me here, because I am still to make these! 😁 )

5: Snowflake Cotton Coaster by Tatsiana Kupryianchyk 

This is a tutorial on how to do surface crochet, together with a free pattern for a unique coaster design in Tatsiana's innovative style. And, despite looking complicated, it is actually quick and easy to do!
Just the job!
You can find the free pattern here:
Surface Crochet Makes a Difference a Free Pattern by Lilla Bjorn Crochet

 I've made 2 sets of these so far - one in deep purple with a lilac trim and one in lilac with a deep purple trim.
You can see them on our Etsy shop here:
 Set of 6 Cotton Coasters in Purple Crochet Snowflake Design

Set of 6 Cotton Coasters in Lilac Elegant Snowflake Design

6: Christmas Themed Coaster by Rajeshwari Singh 

 I'm saving this coaster pattern for nearer to Christmas.
It certainly looks worth doing and enjoyable to do - a pretty flower theme in Christmas colours.
You can find it here:
Christmas Themed Crochet Coaster

7: Merry Berry Coasters

by Fiber Flux / Jennifer Dickerson
Another coasters pattern on my 'to-make-for-Christmas' list.
They certainly look easy and fun to make. And just right for Christmas.
Here is the free pattern:
Free Crochet Pattern...Merry Berry Coasters!

8: Flower Potholders by Jennifer Martin

As you can see, this is really a free pattern to make some very unique potholders, but I've made coasters from this pattern and I think they look great.
(You just end on an earlier row).
You can find the free pattern here (plus a link to some helpful pictures):
This is a Free Ravelry Download for the Flower Potholder Pattern

 These are the coasters I made from the Flower Potholders Pattern.

I've partnered them up with a doily, made using the Free Doily Pattern from Crochet Leaf.
And here is the doily and coasters set I made, now in our Etsy shop:
Cotton Lace Doily and Four Matching Coasters

9: Spring Blooms Coaster by Heather J Anderson

Another free coaster pattern on my to-make list. I've seen some lovely coasters made from this one.
This pattern is published in The Unraveled Mitten.
It is a pretty, floral theme with clear instructions for the cluster design used, so is perfectly fine for all crochet levels.
Here is the free pattern link:
Spring Bloom Crochet Coaster Pattern

10: Coaster - Summer Boaters by Amy Le Pelley

Another very attractive coaster pattern which uses surface slip stitches to trim and has a pretty fluted edge.
A must make for my coaster list!
You can find the free pattern here:
Crochet Coasters - Summer Boaters

So, there you have Ten Fantastic Free Crochet Coaster Patterns.
I hope you find them useful.

More Free Crochet Patterns will no doubt be on the way soon 😀

Sunday 1 September 2019

Crochet Coasters and Doilies For Sale and Free Patterns Too!

As September is almost here, the thoughts of the crafter turn to Christmas presents (sorry, but they do! 😀 ).
So, I've started quite early (because I know that I will slow down later 😊 ).

I love working with cotton yarn, and there are no better items to make in cotton than Coasters and Doilies!
So I've been busy making coaster sets and doily and coaster table sets for Our Etsy Shop.

There are some lovely patterns out there - so much to choose from!
And now I've made quite a few, I might just make a pattern of my own soon.

But in the meantime...

Brand new to our Etsy shop we have:

A lovely cotton Lace doily with 4 matching Flower Coasters

The colours are nice and clean pastel shades of pink, white and green, which are ideal for all year round.
I enjoyed taking the photos with coffee mugs and with glasses, but as well as being a great table setting, this little set would look fantastic on a dressing table too.
You can find the set here:
Cotton Lace doily with 4 matching Flower Coasters
There's more pictures to look at too.
I'm really pleased with these!

Crochet Cotton Lace Doily and 6 Matching Coasters in Beautiful Turquoise

I love turquoise and it looks great when made up with cotton yarn.
And in this lace doily and coaster set, the clean cotton yarn really sets off the lacy pattern nicely.The main photo for this set is 6 glasses and a nice bottle of wine (not for sale of course!).
I can just imagine this set at a party. It would be fun and pretty at the same time!
You can find this pretty turquoise lacy set here:
Crochet Cotton Lace Doily and 6 Matching Coasters Set in Beautiful Turquoise
Again, there are several more pictures to look at.
I hope you like it!

Crochet Cotton Lace Doily and 6 Matching Coasters Set in Gorgeous Dark Heather

I love the colour dark heather. It's warm and elegant and (I think) classy too.
So, I really enjoyed making this Lacy Doily and Coaster Set in dark heather cotton yarn.
It is made from the same Lace doily and coasters patterns as the Turquoise set and the doily from the Flower set. It's such an enjoyable pattern to make, I just might make some more, not only for Etsy, but for Christmas presents for relatives (so any of my relatives reading this have been warned 😄 ).
You can find this elegant doily and coaster set here:
Crochet Cotton Lace Doily and 6 Matching Coasters Set in Gorgeous Dark Heather

And links to the Patterns: 

For those of you who like to make doilies and coasters yourself, I can highly recommend the lovely patterns I have used to make mine.
And here are the links to their pattern pages (all are free patterns):

The Lacy Doily and Lacy Coasters patterns are by Claire from Crochet Leaf
You can find the patterns here:
Lacy Crochet Coaster
Crochet Doily Pattern

And the Flower Coasters in the first set were made by slightly altering a pattern by Jennifer Martin and it's called Flower Potholders.
You can find a free download of the pattern on Ravelry here:
Flower Potholders Pattern

But if you get the time, do have a look at my doily and coaster sets on Etsy. I'm really proud of them and loved taking the different photos too!

And there will most likely be more coasters (and patterns) to come in our next post.

I'm off now to make some more coasters.... 😀

~ Silvi