|Crochet Gift Sack Free Pattern|
As I run 'Teddy in a Bag', I make these small gift sacks to put tiny teddies inside. They make lovely little gifts that children can afford and for stocking fillers.
But every time I get out the yarn to make some more, I have to remember exactly how I made them the last time: how many cast on stitches, how many rows, etc?
So I have made a pattern to help me remember and I'm sharing it here for free.
(There is also a FREE pdf version of this pattern on my Ravelry pattern store.
It has more pictures, which you might find useful. And you can download it here.)
But if you prefer your crochet patterns with less pics and ready now, here it is:
Small Crochet Gift SackA FREE crochet pattern using US Terms
By Silvi Veale
st = stitch or stitches
sl st = slip stitch (used here to join at the end of each row)
ch = chain or chains (eg: ‘ch3’ = ‘make 3 chains)
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc 2 tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together. (yarn over, insert hook into st, yarn over and pull up loop, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook).
RS = right side (of your work)
Yarn used – Double Knit
Hook – 4.5mm
Size made - 4.5 inches length by 4 inches width in dk with a 4.5mm hook
(But you can experiment with thinner or thicker yarn and different size hooks, to get lots of different size gift sacks)
Required to begin:
Yarn in your chosen weight/style
Crochet hook to match yarn used
Darning or large-eye needle, preferably with a blunt end.
And a gift to put inside your gift sack :)
I usually make my little crochet sacks with variegated or colour-changing yarn to make a quick and easy project (and hardly any ends to sew in :) ). But you can also make them with different colour yarns. (Perhaps change colour every two rows, for instance, or have a different colour for the dc round (see the pink and cream gift sack above). It’s completely up to you of course).
All work is done on the Right Side
When the pattern tells you to ‘turn’, it means rotate your work with the RS still facing you.
Ch 2 at begining of rows always counts as a hdc.
Ch 3 at beginning of ‘tie thread’ row counts as a dc.
Ch 1 at the beginning of a sc row DOES NOT count as a st.
(1st 2 ch make first hdc when you...>)hdc in 3rd ch from hook , hdc in next 8 ch, 2 hdc in last ch. Still on the RS rotate work through 180 degrees, hdc in next ch, hdc in next 8ch, hdc in base of 1st ch (the bottom of the 2ch start). Sl st into top of starting ch2 (22 sts)
Ch 2, hdc in 10sts , 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 10 sts, hdc into the same st as the starting ch2 (this makes the second increase of the row), sl st to top of starting ch 2 to join. (24 sts)
Ch 2, hdc into next 11 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 11 sts, hdc into the same st as the starting ch2, sl st to top of starting ch 2 to join. (26 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in next 12 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 12 sts, hdc into the same st as the starting ch2, sl st to top of starting ch 2 to join. (28 sts)
Row 5: Ch 2, hdc in next 13 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 13 sts, hdc into the same st as the starting ch2, sl st to top of starting ch 2 to join. (30 sts)
Increasing finished. The next 3 rows (6, 7 and 8) are all the same st amount, so remember that from now on, you should not st into the same st as the starting ch.
Row 6: Ch 2, hdc in next 29 sts, sl st to top of starting ch 2 to join (30 sts)
Rows 7 and 8: Repeat row 6.
There is now a small decrease which is carried out over the next 2 rows.
Please note: the first decrease (on one side of the sack only) is on row 9 and the second decrease (on the other side of the sack) is on row 10.
Ch 2, hdc next 2 sts together, hdc in 27 sts. Sl st to top of starting ch 2 to join. (29 sts)
ch 2, hdc in next 13 sts, hdc next 2 sts together, hdc in next 13 sts. Sl st to top of starting ch 2 to join. (28 sts)
Row 11: Ch 2, hdc in 27 sts. Sl st to top of starting ch 2 to join. (28 sts)
(this is the dc row)
(making the row to insert the tie chain)
Ch 3, dc in 27 sts. Sl st to top of starting ch 3 to join. (28 sts)
(finishing with a row of sc)
Ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in next 27 sts, Sl st into 1st sc to join.
Cast off and thread in ends.
Cast off leaving at least two inches of thread.
Fitting the chain tie:
Making sure that both ends of the chain are secure:
Thread one end of thread (left from making chain) into a darning/large eye needle.
You are going to thread the chain tie between the dc stitches in row 12.
(Be careful not to snag your yarn with the needle point – a round-edged needle is best if possible)
Find the space between 2 dcs slightly to the right of the middle front of the sack.
Thread needle with chain attached into the space, take it behind the next st and out into the next space.
Continue around, threading the chain in and out of the chain spaces until you get back to the opening just before where you began to thread the chain.
Pull through, making sure that the other end of the chain is still in the same space.
Unthread the chain from the needle.
Pull both ends of the chain gently, until you have lined the chain up to have equal ends.
To make the tie look neater, take each chain end and tie a single knot as close to the chain as possible.
Then cut the excess thread, leaving about half and inch on each end of the chain.
Place a small gift inside the sack.
Tighten the tie chain and thread into a bow to finish.
And there you have it.
One small gift sack!
Just a note…This is a simple little pattern, but the pattern and picture tutorial is made by me, Silvi Veale.
Please do not claim this pattern as your own, or use my pictures to promote your work.
But please feel free to make as many little gift bags as you like and sell them if you want to.
I would appreciate a mention or a link back if you do, but it’s not essential.